DanZ Profile

I agree with RFB. I find it odd that your teacher would be biased against a square filter. You\'ll find that unless you\'re shooting pro lenses which generally have a 77mm element, you\'ll end up with varying sizes of lenses. Example, if you have a lenses that are 77mm, 68mm, 50mm and you regularly use 4 different filters, you\'d have to buy 12 filters. That can get expensive quick, especially if you buy quality filters and one of them is a CP. With a system like Cokin or Lee you\'ll buy the 4 filters, the holder, and then 3 adapters (based on the example of three lenses) to fit the holder to the lens. A much cheaper option.

1 Answer  |  Asked By: rawritscorkerz  1

UV as a protector for the lens element. CP, ND\'s 0.6, 0.9, Graduated ND. For landscape shots you may want something with a graduated tint to make a dramatic sky effect...

4 Answers  |  Asked By: JDFlatbush  2

Both rfb and photo1017 are sterring you in the right direction. Learn everything you can about your camera and practice, practice, practice. Be critical of your own work. Pro\'s will shoot hundreds of pictures during a shoot and narrow them down to only a few that are presentable. The beauty of digital is that you can shoot all you want, delete, and start over. You don\'t need to pay for developing!

3 Answers  |  Asked By: ElizabethCrutchfield  10

Start with the rule of thirds. Envision a grid in your viewfinder (some cameras have them) that looks like a tic-tac-toe grid. Generally you want your subject to line up along one of the lines to keep it out of the center of the image; however, rules are meant to be broken and this one is quite frequently. An example of using this with a person as your subject: Your subject is looking at something off in the distance. When you frame you subject, make sure they are along one of the imaginary lines, off center. The trick here is which line. Say your subject is looking to what would be the right in the photo. In this case you want to line your subject up on the left third of the frame...this way the subject has space in the frame to \"look into\". Try taking a photo of a subject with them at the left, center, and right of the frame while the subject is looking to the right (or left), and you\'ll see what I\'m talking about. Same with vehicles...always give them room to move into the frame. For landscapes, never split the photo with the horizon down the middle.

No Answers  |  Asked By: midgetsumo  1

A lot of it will depend on the equipment you\'re shooting with. Like flashpoint said, a lens with an f stop of 2.8 or less will be beneficial, but depending on the effect you want (more or less DOF) you may not need to go that open. Ideally you\'ll need a flash that you can put a gel on so you can balance the lighting being used (usually incandescent). So, the questions back to you are, 1) what type of equipment and 2) What type of images are you trying to capture?

3 Answers  |  Asked By: drphoto  16

For a relatively cheap turnkey solution, look at what Portfoliositez has to offer. The have galleries, protected proofing area, and a shopping cart. http://www.portfoliositez.com/

6 Answers  |  Asked By: ravery10  1