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Member Since: 4 / 13 / 2010
About Me: Native german speaker, so please excuse my mistakes. Living in Vienna, Austria. If you are really curious, google my Nick or my full name. You can find me on Flickr, Facebook, Picasa, Twitter and many other social networks.
Last year I would have answered: \"Private albums in a flickr pro account\". Flickr, because the take money for the pro service and because the belong to Yahoo, one of the bigger players. So your pictures should be quite save as long as Flickr is alive. In the meanwhile I heard some stories about Flickr canceling accounts because of \"terms-of-service\"-violations without warning. That alone might be questionable - especially for pro accounts. But the fact that \"canceling\" goes along with immidiate deletion of all pictures of that canceled account, with no way to restore them by flickr is frightning. And it did happen, that they canceled accounts by mistake.
Neither. It\'s stability and sensitivity. Stability means a tripod, beanbag or something similair which helps you to avoid camera shake. Sensitivity means high ISO numbers and low noise at these higher ISO settings. It may be unpleasant, but a lot of megapixels will not help you in low light conditions. If you have two (e.g.) APS-C sensors one with 18 megapixels and one with 10 megapixels, each pixel on the 10 mp sensor will have a bigger surface and because of that it will catch almost twice as much photons as one of the 18 mp sensor. Imagine buckets with lets say 8 measurement lines. In the 18mp setup we have 4 0.5l buckets. They get 6, 3, 5 and 3 lines of photons. For the same scene in the 10mp setup we have 2 1l buckets and they get 4(.5) and 4 lines of photons. Because they are wider, not deeper. Anyway - the variations is much lower. And that means less variation and that means a lower noise. Fast glass can help, but if your scene demands f/8 because you need that depth of field, it doesn\'t matter if your lens is an f/1.2 or an f/4. So for night photography I would go for big (full-frame) sensors. And you can believe me, for me as a pasionated Canon-Shooter it is really hard to say, that I would go for the Nikon D3 or D3s. Source Link: Review of the D3s Source Link: Review of the (older) D3
If you really want to get into it, learn and practice a lot, then you should look for a camera which offers you aperture priority, shutter priority and manual mode. These modes allow you to override the usual automatic and program modes the more simple point-and-shoot cameras offer. And these modes allow you make mistakes so you can learn what really happens. An entry-level DSLR would serve best, since these also have a hot-shoe which allows you get into flash-photography. And no, those build in flashes are not the real thing. And DSLRs allow you to you to use additional lenses. Dont ask me for models and manufactors. I wouldn\'t dare to suggest one. Go to a store, take it in your hand, and try to find one that feels right for you. Ask for the manual or in most cases you might even download it from the internet. Read it, and read another one, check the second hand market and find some photographers around you. Ask them if you might go to the zoo or something like that with them. and if you might take some shots with their camera. Watch them taking the same shots and ask them what they do and why. Think of your other hobbies. There a compact cameras you can take with you snorkeling down to 30 feet. But the best camera is the one you will have always with you. So look for the best fit to you and your life. And never forget most mobilephone cameras are better than those which were used to take the pictures which won purlitzer prices 30 years ago. But these pictures are still famous. It\'s the photographer who takes the pictures, not the camera.
This question is impossible to answer unless you tell us what you want to photograph. It\'s like with cars. A Formula-1 car will fail on an offroad trip.
I agree with Sam. Unless you are using film or a very old digital camera, you dont need an UV Filter. There allready is on on your sensor. And for lens protection a lens hood will do a far better job.
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